Build Your Own Cornhole Board: Full Cut List and Plans

1. 01 Gather wood and hardware You are building two boards. Grab two 4x8 sheets of half-inch plywood for the decks (a sanded birch or pine ply gives the smoothest finish), plus 2x4 lumber for the frames and legs. Add 1.5 inch wood screws, four carriage bolts with washers and lock nuts for the leg pivots, and wood glue.
   cut listShopping list per pair: 2 sheets ½" plywood (48" x 24" decks), 4 x 2x4 @ 8 ft (frames + legs), 1.5" screws, 4 carriage bolts + nuts/washers, wood glue.
2. 02 Cut the decks Cut each plywood deck to exactly 48 inches by 24 inches. A circular saw with a straightedge clamp gives you clean, square edges. Cut both decks now so they match.
3. 03 Build the 2x4 frames For each board cut two side rails at 48 inches and two end rails at 21 inches. The 21 inch ends tuck between the long rails so the frame sits flush under the 24 inch deck. Glue and screw the rectangle together, checking it is square before the glue sets.
   cut listFrame cut list per board: 2 rails @ 48", 2 rails @ 21" (so 21" + two 1.5" rails = 24" width).
4. 04 Cut and mark the hole Find center side to side on the deck, then measure 9 inches down from the top edge to the hole center. Draw a 6 inch circle (3 inch radius). Mark both decks the same way so the holes line up across the set.
   cut listHole: 6" diameter, centered left to right, center point 9" from the top edge (12" to the center of the 24" width).
5. 05 Drill and jigsaw the hole Drill a starter hole just inside the circle, drop in a jigsaw blade, and cut around the line. A 6 inch hole saw works too if you have one. Sand the cut edge so a bag slides in clean.
6. 06 Attach the deck to the frame Run a bead of glue along the top of the frame, lay the deck on, and screw it down every 8 to 10 inches around the perimeter. Keep the deck edges flush with the frame.
7. 07 Build the folding legs Cut four legs from 2x4 at about 11.5 inches. Round the top corners so they swing freely. Mount each pair inside the frame at the back with a carriage bolt so they pivot. When the legs are down, the back of the board should sit 12 inches high and the front edge 3 to 4 inches up, giving the standard angle.
   cut listLegs ~11.5-12" so the back sits 12" off the ground and the front 3-4" up (about a 10 degree deck angle).
8. 08 Sand everything smooth Sand the whole board with 120 grit to knock down splinters and saw marks, then finish with 220 grit for a slick top that bags slide on. Pay extra attention to the hole edge and all four corners.
   cut listSand 120 grit first, then 220 grit on the playing surface.

Wipe off the sanding dust, then roll on one coat of exterior primer so the paint grips and the grain stays sealed. Once it dries, sand lightly with 220 again, then apply two coats of exterior latex paint, sanding gently between coats. Pick your team colors here.

If you want the fastest, slickest top, finish with two or three coats of clear polyurethane over the paint. Poly gives bags that smooth, predictable glide and protects the surface from dew and spills. Let everything cure fully before the first toss.

For the deck, half-inch sanded plywood is the standard. Birch ply costs a little more and sands glassy. Avoid OSB and rough construction ply, which never get smooth enough for clean bag slides. The frame and legs are plain 2x4s.

For paint, use exterior latex so the boards survive being left out. Two coats over primer is plenty. Finish with polyurethane if you want a faster surface. Skip a thick glossy enamel by itself, since it can stay tacky and grab bags.

No saw, no garage, no Saturday to spare? A finished regulation set arrives sanded, painted, and ready to toss. These are the boards I would buy.